Most anti-aging skin care products today contain a variety of acids, meant to continuously get rid of dead skin cells for a fresher skin appearance. I personally like to have a treatment product that does an intense exfoliation on an occasional basis, and my daily skin care to be filled with ingredients that nourish and hydrate my skin all day long.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA) and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are highly effective anti-aging ingredients, clinically proven to reduce the signs of photoaging. When applied topically, AHA’s and BHA’s are known to diminish fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, elasticity, and hydration, and reduce hyper-pigmentation.
The A&B’s of Hydroxy Acids
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
- Alpha-Hydroxy Acids are organic acids found naturally in plants (Glycolic Acid) or sour milk (Lactic Acid). They may also be produced synthetically for use in cosmetic applications. They are widely known for their ability to improve the appearance and texture of aging skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and scarring. When topically applied, AHA’s work on both the dermis, and epidermis to improve skin health and appearance.
- On the surface, AHA’s help dissolve the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together, encouraging skin cell sloughing, from the epidermis and reducing the build up of dry, dead skin cells (a process known as keratinization). Moving deeper into the dermis, AHA’s effectively reduce the signs of photoaging by improving the quality of elastin fibers, increasing collagen density, and increasing dermal thickness.
- In other words, the acids work to cause the sloughing off of dead skin cells, which helps promote the elasticity and firmness of your skin. It also helps to keep it from thinning and becoming translucent, where you can visibly see blood vessels by encouraging the thickness of your skin.
- AHA’s also make the skin more receptive to moisturization from topically applied products. Because their small molecular size allows for increased skin penetration, Glycolic and Lactic Acids are the most effective and commonly used AHAs. Other AHA’s used in skin care formulations include Malic Acid, Citric Acid and Tartaric Acid.
Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
- Similar to AHA’s, BHA’s are organic acids that are commonly used in skin care preparations to treat the signs of aging, acne, and psoriasis through chemical exfoliation. When applied topically, they are also known to support improved skin barrier function, increase skin thickness, and promote collagen synthesis.
- Unlike AHA’s, BHA’s are lipid rather than water soluble, allowing them to penetrate the skin through follicles and aid exfoliation within pores. This property makes BHA’s particularly useful in the treatment of oily skin, or for those suffering from clogged pores and acne.
- BHA’s also have anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties that make them effective in addressing common dermatological problems. The most commonly used BHA is Salicylic Acid.
What Alpha-Hydroxy Acids and Beta-Hydroxy Acids should you be looking for in your exfoliation products?
Skin aging – characterized by wrinkles, sagging, hyperpigmentation and dryness – is a major dermatological concern, and there is a growing demand for products that provide anti-aging benefits.
I would like to introduce you to an acid peel which has the following ingredients and works this way:
- AHA’s and BHA’s~ Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Salicylic Acid reduce the effects of photoaging by promoting exfoliation and improving skin structure and function.
- Glycolic Acid ~ an AHA derived from sugar cane. Due to its small molecular size, Glycolic Acid has an excellent ability to penetrate skin where it both promotes exfoliation in the epidermis and improves skin function in the dermis.
- Lactic Acid ~ an AHA that is slightly milder than Glycolic Acid. Similar to Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid aids in the sloughing of dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. It also helps reduce the signs of environmental aging, hyperpigmentation and scarring.
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid ~ an oil soluble BHA that promotes healthy skin cell shedding inside of pores. The unique encapsulation process is a FIRST IN THE INDUSTRY! Encapsulation allows for both effective delivery of high levels of Salicylic Acid, and continued release throughout the day. Exfoliation improves skin appearance, while the anti-inflammatory calms and protects.
- N-Acetyl Glucosamine ~ a stable form of Glucosamine, N-Acetyl Glucosamine is an integral part of the connective tissue that holds cells together and supports cell membrane structure. Both gentle and effective, Glucosamine acts on the desmosomal linkages that hold skin together directly without damaging them. This results in an improved ability for skin to shed dead skin cells. Studies have also shown that N-Acetyl Glucosamine is effective at inhibiting melanin production, thus reducing hyperpigmentation via topical use.
- Aloe Vera and Cucumber Extracts ~ Soothes and protects skin to prevent long-term irritation.
This innovative, new product is the Celloxylin MD 20Ex Acid Peel. This peel allows you to have the ability to address the visible signs of aging without the cost or risk associated with professional acid peel treatments. Using the highest active levels possible without a prescription, Apriori Beauty has created a highly potent, proprietary 20%acid complex to produce immediate, visible results in the comfort of your home!
I met a woman the other day who was fanning her face as she was working, because she was feeling the burning effects of the acid peel she had received the day before. She was so relieved when I told her about the new in-home peel – she won’t be burning anymore and she will save a lot of money with the 20Ex Acid Peel!
Another note is from my personal esthetician. If you are using products that cause you skin’s pH to be in the higher end (8-11), your face will feel more burning when the peel brings the pH down to 3.6. If you are using products that maintain your skin’s natural pH of around 5.5, your will feel very little or nothing (like me!) when your peel brings it down to 3.6. Using pH correct products not only protect the skin’s acid mantle, it also promotes your skin’s protective barrier immune function. That’s a another post to come!